This is what I have been looking at building , bear in mind its in Australian dollars
Gaming PC
Video Cards ATI Gigabyte GV-R777OC-1GD ATI HD 7770 OC Edition : Gigabyte ATI HD 7770 OC Edition, PCI-E 3.0, 1GB 128-bit GDDR5, 1100 / 4500 MHz, DVI, HDMI, 2x Mini DP, DX11.1, Fan Our price: AUD 135.00
=================================================================== Motherboard ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 - motherboard - ATX - LGA1155 Socket - Z68 - LGA1155 Socket $177 new from 7 sellers
=================================================================== Memory Corsair 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 Vengeance Memory for AMD, Intel Dual Channel DDR3, and upcoming 2nd Generation Intel Core™ platforms Our price: AUD 118.00 =============================================================== CPU i5 Processor, 3.4GHz, LGA1155, Quad Core 4 Threads, 6M Cache, Integrated Graphics, Turbo Boost up to 3.8GHz, 22nm, with FAN Our price: AUD 209.00 ================================================================== Case CoolerMaster HAF 912 Advanced, RC-912A-KWN1 Our price: AUD 109.00 ============================================================== Hard Disks
SSD : Corsair Neutron Series SSD $120.00 Sata : Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 7200RPM 2 TB SATA 6 GB/s NCQ 64 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Drive Our price: AUD 109.00
================================================================ OS Microsoft Windows Home Premium 7 64-bit English 1pk DSP OEI DVD, with Service pack1 Our price: AUD 90.00
If you can find someone to buy it for you and send it this "shell shocker" deal from Newegg isn't bad considering it hits the majorify of your needs with decent quality products and under your price point. This leaves you enough left over for shipping and a HDD to boot.
Originally posted by Arakazi Thanks for the reply. Are i5 processors better than i7 for gaming?
For the VAST majority of all games available today and into the forseable future of any system you build today an i7 is a complete waste of money for a purely gaming machine. i5 3570k is about as good as it gets.
Is that your preferred site because to be honest not only is it so busy it's actually painful to navigate it's fairly obvious is lacks any form of editor review prior to posting adds. On the few i5 3570K bundles in the description is clearly states they will overclock your "i5 2500K" from 3.3-4.8. I'm hoping you can clearly see the error there. Personally I have a hard time taking sites like that seriously but if those are good deals I guess it's alright.
When you say Solid State HDD I'll assume you mean simply a Solid State Drive or otherwise known as SSD. In almost everyway accept one it is a major advancement over HDD's, that one being cost per gigabyte. Check out the following link for more information regarding the differences.
Bottomline: For most people a SSD is a MUCH better investment over just about any other potential "upgrade" in a new PC if you have never experienced one before. I would say the ideal setup for just about any new PC would be to have a SSD as your primary boot drive (the one which you install your operating system on) with an HDD for storage purposes only. That nets your the best of both worlds and considering the cost of each these days it really don't hit the pocket book that hard.
Originally posted by Arakazi Thanks for the reply. Are i5 processors better than i7 for gaming?
For the VAST majority of all games available today and into the forseable future of any system you build today an i7 is a complete waste of money for a purely gaming machine. i5 3570k is about as good as it gets.
Agreed. But what you do need is a good gfx card and I am not sure the recommended so far is good enough.
Exactly which components do you have that you're hoping to reuse? There would be no sense in buying new parts that are incompatible with the old parts that you're trying to reuse.
Well those combo deals arent so much as "deals" but the stuff seems matched ok. However, it is no cheaper than buying each piece at a place like overclockers, scan, dabs or ebuyer.
Also unless you know what you are doing you dont really want it overclocked - over clocking on a brand new cpu isnt needed and no game at the moment will require the overclock to have better gaming performance, the only thing it could do is damage your kit unless you put it into the correct surroundings.
I'm keeping one of the HDD, my two blueray dvd writers, PSU, wifi network card and the GPU - Nvdia 560 as well as my 24" screen. I've already bought the case and another HDD today and I'm still looking at what CPU I want to buy. AMD Bulldozers seem really, really cheap but I will probably go with an i5. 8GB of ram and a gigabyte MB.
I remember spending almost £2000 on a new computer.. how did things get so cheap?!
I'm keeping one of the HDD, my two blueray dvd writers, PSU, wifi network card and the GPU - Nvdia 560 as well as my 24" screen. I've already bought the case and another HDD today and I'm still looking at what CPU I want to buy. AMD Bulldozers seem really, really cheap but I will probably go with an i5. 8GB of ram and a gigabyte MB.
What case, and what power supply? And you didn't mention an SSD as something that you're either keeping from an old build or buying for a new one. You'll probably need a new OS license, too.
I bought a coolmaster HAF X and the PSU I have from my old system is a OCZ 600 watt power supply. As for the SSD, I'm going to wait and see how much money I have left before buying one but the OCZ AGT3-25SAT3-240G Agility 3 240GB is my pick so far,
EDIT: Will I have to buy a new OS if I still have the windows 7 box?
Originally posted by ShakyMo He won't need a new OS licence if he has his old hd somewhere on his pc
Windows 7 OEM license is tied to the motherboard, not the harddrive. The OP is replacing the MB and since that license is non transferable (if its OEM) than yes, the OP does need a new copy of Win 7 and should include that into the price while looking for replacement hardware.
Originally posted by ShakyMo He won't need a new OS licence if he has his old hd somewhere on his pc
Windows 7 OEM license is tied to the motherboard, not the harddrive. The OP is replacing the MB and since that license is non transferable (if its OEM) than yes, the OP does need a new copy of Win 7 and should include that into the price while looking for replacement hardware.
Originally posted by ShakyMo He won't need a new OS licence if he has his old hd somewhere on his pc
Windows 7 OEM license is tied to the motherboard, not the harddrive. The OP is replacing the MB and since that license is non transferable (if its OEM) than yes, the OP does need a new copy of Win 7 and should include that into the price while looking for replacement hardware.
Can I just buy a liscense instead?
Yes, you can just buy a license from Microsoft but its the same price as buying the physical OEM version from any retail outlet.
If you bought the retail version originally that license is transferable to a new machine. Most of the time users who build their own machines get the OEM license because its cheaper, so thats what my guess is in your case.
As you mentioned having the Windows 7 box (assuming it's the larger strangly shaped version) you probably have the retail version in which case you would not have to buy a new copy of the license. Do you recall when you purchased your previous system roughly how much you paid for Windows 7? That right there would most likely tell us whether you have an OEM or Retail version.
I have also heard of people getting an OEM version "reset" by calling MS and telling them their old MB died and they are replacing it. Considering you are in fact replacing only parts of your old system due to it failing you might qualify to have that done (if it's OEM that is).
I have two versions of windows. One windows Vista that came installed my old Dell PC which I'm currently using and the retail version I bought from Amazon around the begining of this year for around £80. As far as I was aware the retail version was my own license and could use on as many machines as I liked, while the one that came installed in my old PC still belongs to Dell and is tied to that PC.
Originally posted by Arakazi I have two versions of windows. One windows Vista that came installed my old Dell PC which I'm currently using and the retail version I bought from Amazon. As far as I was aware the retail version was my own license and could use on as many machines as I liked, while the one that came installed in my old PC was tied to that PC.
If you indeed purchased a regular retail copy then you can reuse that. Be aware though that Amazon does sell OEM versions as well. Did the one you purchase come with both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions? If not it's likely an OEM copy or as Amazon calls it "Systems Builder" version.
Below is the retail copy of the same version of Windows 7 home premium. It's also double the price of the OEM version and it comes packaged in a fancy looking box.
If you got your version of Windows in a generic looking package its probably the OEM version. If your copy of Windows came in a fancy looking box, similar as the one in my second link, its probably the retail version.
If you still have some functionality of your computer you can also right-click on My Computer and select Properties. On General Tab, under “Registered to:” you can see a product ID (divided into 4 groups of characters separated by hyphens). On an OEM installation, the 2nd group of characters is always OEM whereas on a Retail installation, you will see numbers (such 042).
Hopefully these methods will help you determine if you own the OEM or retail copy of Windows.
Comments
This is what I have been looking at building , bear in mind its in Australian dollars
Gaming PC
Video Cards
ATI
Gigabyte GV-R777OC-1GD ATI HD 7770 OC Edition :
Gigabyte ATI HD 7770 OC Edition, PCI-E 3.0, 1GB 128-bit GDDR5, 1100 / 4500 MHz, DVI, HDMI, 2x Mini DP, DX11.1, Fan
Our price: AUD 135.00
OR
Nvidia
Gigabyte GV-N640OC-2GI, GF GT640 PCI-E 2.0, 2GB 128-bit DDR3, 1050 / 1800 MHz , 2 x DVI, D-Sub, HDMI, Fan
Our price: AUD 109.00
===================================================================
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 - motherboard - ATX - LGA1155 Socket - Z68 - LGA1155 Socket
$177 new from 7 sellers
===================================================================
Memory
Corsair 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 Vengeance Memory for AMD, Intel Dual Channel DDR3, and upcoming 2nd Generation Intel Core™ platforms
Our price: AUD 118.00
===============================================================
CPU
i5 Processor, 3.4GHz, LGA1155, Quad Core 4 Threads, 6M Cache, Integrated Graphics, Turbo Boost up to 3.8GHz, 22nm, with FAN
Our price: AUD 209.00
==================================================================
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912 Advanced, RC-912A-KWN1
Our price: AUD 109.00
==============================================================
Hard Disks
SSD : Corsair Neutron Series SSD $120.00
Sata : Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 7200RPM 2 TB SATA 6 GB/s NCQ 64 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Drive
Our price: AUD 109.00
================================================================
OS
Microsoft Windows Home Premium 7 64-bit English 1pk DSP OEI DVD, with Service pack1
Our price: AUD 90.00
Hope this helps: works out to be around $1050 AUD
If you can find someone to buy it for you and send it this "shell shocker" deal from Newegg isn't bad considering it hits the majorify of your needs with decent quality products and under your price point. This leaves you enough left over for shipping and a HDD to boot.
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-1068418-_-09132012_1
For the VAST majority of all games available today and into the forseable future of any system you build today an i7 is a complete waste of money for a purely gaming machine. i5 3570k is about as good as it gets.
Unfortuneatly that company doesn'r operate in the UK. But I will be interested in your guys opinion on the bundles the co. offer via the link below.
I've already bought the HDD and case and still undecided on the the rest. What do solid state HDD do exactly?
http://www.awd-it.co.uk/components/cpu-memory-motherboard-bundles.html
Is that your preferred site because to be honest not only is it so busy it's actually painful to navigate it's fairly obvious is lacks any form of editor review prior to posting adds. On the few i5 3570K bundles in the description is clearly states they will overclock your "i5 2500K" from 3.3-4.8. I'm hoping you can clearly see the error there. Personally I have a hard time taking sites like that seriously but if those are good deals I guess it's alright.
When you say Solid State HDD I'll assume you mean simply a Solid State Drive or otherwise known as SSD. In almost everyway accept one it is a major advancement over HDD's, that one being cost per gigabyte. Check out the following link for more information regarding the differences.
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2404258,00.asp
Bottomline: For most people a SSD is a MUCH better investment over just about any other potential "upgrade" in a new PC if you have never experienced one before. I would say the ideal setup for just about any new PC would be to have a SSD as your primary boot drive (the one which you install your operating system on) with an HDD for storage purposes only. That nets your the best of both worlds and considering the cost of each these days it really don't hit the pocket book that hard.
One of the better sites to get parts from in the uk is
www.overclockers.co.uk
there are others aswell that are just as good but i mainly use overclockers..
Agreed. But what you do need is a good gfx card and I am not sure the recommended so far is good enough.
i5 3570k as stated
Some sort of mid high AMD card like a 7870
Nvidia are pricey in the UK, you get more bang for your £ with a AMD card.
Well those combo deals arent so much as "deals" but the stuff seems matched ok. However, it is no cheaper than buying each piece at a place like overclockers, scan, dabs or ebuyer.
Also unless you know what you are doing you dont really want it overclocked - over clocking on a brand new cpu isnt needed and no game at the moment will require the overclock to have better gaming performance, the only thing it could do is damage your kit unless you put it into the correct surroundings.
http://www.cclonline.com/product/73623/NoMfgCode/Motherboard-Bundles/CCL-Elite-Athena-Motherboard-Bundle/MBB-INTEL-MID/
http://www.cclonline.com/product/78775/FX-787A-CNFC/Graphics-Cards/XFX-AMD-Radeon-HD7870-Core-Edition-2GB-Graphics-Card/VGA0588/
Thanks for all the replies.
I'm keeping one of the HDD, my two blueray dvd writers, PSU, wifi network card and the GPU - Nvdia 560 as well as my 24" screen. I've already bought the case and another HDD today and I'm still looking at what CPU I want to buy. AMD Bulldozers seem really, really cheap but I will probably go with an i5. 8GB of ram and a gigabyte MB.
I remember spending almost £2000 on a new computer.. how did things get so cheap?!
What case, and what power supply? And you didn't mention an SSD as something that you're either keeping from an old build or buying for a new one. You'll probably need a new OS license, too.
I bought a coolmaster HAF X and the PSU I have from my old system is a OCZ 600 watt power supply. As for the SSD, I'm going to wait and see how much money I have left before buying one but the OCZ AGT3-25SAT3-240G Agility 3 240GB is my pick so far,
EDIT: Will I have to buy a new OS if I still have the windows 7 box?
Windows 7 OEM license is tied to the motherboard, not the harddrive. The OP is replacing the MB and since that license is non transferable (if its OEM) than yes, the OP does need a new copy of Win 7 and should include that into the price while looking for replacement hardware.
Can I just buy a liscense instead?
Yes, you can just buy a license from Microsoft but its the same price as buying the physical OEM version from any retail outlet.
If you bought the retail version originally that license is transferable to a new machine. Most of the time users who build their own machines get the OEM license because its cheaper, so thats what my guess is in your case.
As you mentioned having the Windows 7 box (assuming it's the larger strangly shaped version) you probably have the retail version in which case you would not have to buy a new copy of the license. Do you recall when you purchased your previous system roughly how much you paid for Windows 7? That right there would most likely tell us whether you have an OEM or Retail version.
I have also heard of people getting an OEM version "reset" by calling MS and telling them their old MB died and they are replacing it. Considering you are in fact replacing only parts of your old system due to it failing you might qualify to have that done (if it's OEM that is).
If you indeed purchased a regular retail copy then you can reuse that. Be aware though that Amazon does sell OEM versions as well. Did the one you purchase come with both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions? If not it's likely an OEM copy or as Amazon calls it "Systems Builder" version.
Examples of OEM:
32-bit
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-32bit-System-Builder/dp/B004Q0T10A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347589900&sr=8-3&keywords=windows+7+oem
64-bit
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-64bit-System-Builder/dp/B004Q0PT3I/ref=pd_cp_sw_0
Full Retail version:
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-7-Home-Premium/dp/B002DHGMK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=software&ie=UTF8&qid=1347590194&sr=1-4&keywords=windows+7
Upgrade version:
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Premium-Upgrade/dp/B002DHLUWK/ref=sr_1_2?s=software&ie=UTF8&qid=1347590194&sr=1-2&keywords=windows+7
Below is a copy of the OEM version of Windows 7 home premium
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-64bit-System-Builder/dp/B004Q0PT3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347590157&sr=8-1&keywords=windows+7=-0
Below is the retail copy of the same version of Windows 7 home premium. It's also double the price of the OEM version and it comes packaged in a fancy looking box.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-7-Home-Premium/dp/B002DHGMK0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347590157&sr=8-4&keywords=windows+7
If you got your version of Windows in a generic looking package its probably the OEM version. If your copy of Windows came in a fancy looking box, similar as the one in my second link, its probably the retail version.
If you still have some functionality of your computer you can also right-click on My Computer and select Properties. On General Tab, under “Registered to:” you can see a product ID (divided into 4 groups of characters separated by hyphens). On an OEM installation, the 2nd group of characters is always OEM whereas on a Retail installation, you will see numbers (such 042).
Hopefully these methods will help you determine if you own the OEM or retail copy of Windows.