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Tentative Upgrade Specs - Opinions Wanted

WSIMikeWSIMike Member Posts: 5,564

Hey all, me again.

So, I'm going to be upgrading my system in the next few weeks (hopefully) and thougth I'd share what my tentative setup is going to be. I say tentative, because these components are an "ideal" of about the price range I'm looking to upgrade to. Of course, if there are better deals, or even just better choices available when I'm ready to buy, I'll adjust accordingly.

I was wondering if some of the more hardware-savvy folks here might like to weigh in with opinions on the choices, make suggestions for better options (keeping +/- $10-20 in price), etc...

So.. to start with, I already have a NVidia GTX460 1GB from MSI, so I'm set in the graphics dept (no interest in SLI really).

Here are the components I currently have on my NewEgg wishlist:

CPU

Mobo - Not "married" to this choice, but it seems like a good option, especially for the price.

RAM - same as Mobo, not "married" to this choice.

PSU - Can maybe go a little lower on power for this? Would rather have more power than I need than not enough. Likely going to find a modular model where I can attach only the cables I need.

Case - Really like this case. Simple, sleek and nicely setup inside.

 

I'll also need a new DVD-ROM drive (which are very inexpensive). Also, I might get an after-market CPU FAN/Heatsink.... so something else to consider.

Anyhoo... there's the base components... Have at it!

 

"If you just step away for a sec you will clearly see all the pot holes in the road,
and the cash shop selling asphalt..."
- Mimzel on F2P/Cash Shops

image

Comments

  • MehveMehve Member Posts: 487

    Nothing wrong with that lineup there.

    You've got more power than you need, certainly no harm in dropping to a 650W unit if the price is right, as long as you're certain you're not going to go multi-GPU in the future. Depending on your overclocking ambitions, you'd likely get by with a good 550W, although such a PSU would definitely work for its living under stress-testing conditions.

    If you're building from scratch, you should at least drop a cheap aftermarket heatsink into the equation - ANYTHING is better than the stock pieces of metal, really.

    A Modest Proposal for MMORPGs:
    That the means of progression would not be mutually exclusive from the means of enjoyment.

  • QuizzicalQuizzical Member LegendaryPosts: 25,353

    That's way overkill on the power supply.  With a 125 W CPU and a 160 W video card, your system may or may not ever draw 300 W.  A good quality power supply rated at around 500 W is plenty for your needs unless you're going for a hefty overclock.

    Something like this would be plenty for your needs:

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094

    If you prefer modular (the power supply you picked isn't), then this one is basically a modular version of the same thing:

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

    -----

    It's a decent enough case, but for a gaming system with that high of a price tag, you might want more fans, so that you can run them slower and get plenty of airflow.  If you really like the design, though, then have at it.

    Actually, here's an interesting combo deal:

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.480371

    Nice power supply and a nice case, for $140 plus $17 shipping, before a $20 mail-in rebate.  It's still overkill on the wattage, but it's cheap and reasonably good quality.  It's not as good of quality as the Seasonic S12II that I linked above, though.  It's also a semi-modular design, so some cables are attached to the power supply, and there are also some modular cables that you can use if needed or leave outside of the case if you don't need them.  Fully modular is kind of silly, as everyone is going to need to connect the power supply to the motherboard, though this one has some non-modular cables that you probably won't use.

  • WSIMikeWSIMike Member Posts: 5,564

    Yeah it's occurred to me that 750 is overkill for my needs. At one point I considered SLI and so it would have made more sense. I've since decided just to stick with single cards, but kept with the 750 thing :-p.

    Can probably shave off a few bucks with that.

    Like I said, everything there is tentative, to give me a ball-park idea of what I can about expect to get and for around how much $$$. When it comes time to make the purchase, I'm going to be revisiting several of those choices.

    Anyhoo... thanks for the suggestions! I always forget to look into those combo deals (case/PSU, etc) so that's something to keep in mind.

    "If you just step away for a sec you will clearly see all the pot holes in the road,
    and the cash shop selling asphalt..."
    - Mimzel on F2P/Cash Shops

    image

  • MazinMazin Member Posts: 640

    Basically repeating what the others have told yah, 750w is way overkill for what you are gonna run.  I'd go with 650w, even 650 is overkill but like you I'd rather lean on the safe side; you could easily get away with 550-600w though.

    I'm not sure why you are so stoked about that case (but if you really like it then go for it), personally I like the antec 900.  The above poster linked to an antec 300 combo but the 300 is just a little small for me.  The 900 has about 1.5" more room than the 300 and with most graphics cards now adays it makes it much easier to put together with the 900.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=antec+nine+hundred&x=8&y=26

  • MazinMazin Member Posts: 640

    O here is a nice deal that has all the components (and only those components) you need.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.473044

  • WSIMikeWSIMike Member Posts: 5,564

    Originally posted by Mazin

    Basically repeating what the others have told yah, 750w is way overkill for what you are gonna run.  I'd go with 650w, even 650 is overkill but like you I'd rather lean on the safe side; you could easily get away with 550-600w though.

    I'm not sure why you are so stoked about that case (but if you really like it then go for it), personally I like the antec 900.  The above poster linked to an antec 300 combo but the 300 is just a little small for me.  The 900 has about 1.5" more room than the 300 and with most graphics cards now adays it makes it much easier to put together with the 900.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=antec+nine+hundred&x=8&y=26

    I like that case in particular because it's very "streamlined"... so to speak. I'm not into the clear-sides or LED lights everywhere, or fins and such sticking out all over. The Lian-Li comes with an LED fan in the front, but I can easily replace it with a non-LED version.

    I just want a basic, low-profile case on the outside, but that is well setup on the inside. I checked out some reviews of cases from that same line (essentially the same case design, but with minor variances), and it just seems like the "right" case for what I'm after.

    "If you just step away for a sec you will clearly see all the pot holes in the road,
    and the cash shop selling asphalt..."
    - Mimzel on F2P/Cash Shops

    image

  • MazinMazin Member Posts: 640

    Originally posted by WSIMike

    Originally posted by Mazin

    Basically repeating what the others have told yah, 750w is way overkill for what you are gonna run.  I'd go with 650w, even 650 is overkill but like you I'd rather lean on the safe side; you could easily get away with 550-600w though.

    I'm not sure why you are so stoked about that case (but if you really like it then go for it), personally I like the antec 900.  The above poster linked to an antec 300 combo but the 300 is just a little small for me.  The 900 has about 1.5" more room than the 300 and with most graphics cards now adays it makes it much easier to put together with the 900.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=antec+nine+hundred&x=8&y=26

    I like that case in particular because it's very "streamlined"... so to speak. I'm not into the clear-sides or LED lights everywhere, or fins and such sticking out all over. The Lian-Li comes with an LED fan in the front, but I can easily replace it with a non-LED version.

    I just want a basic, low-profile case on the outside, but that is well setup on the inside. I checked out some reviews of cases from that same line (essentially the same case design, but with minor variances), and it just seems like the "right" case for what I'm after.

    Nah thats cool bro, if thats the case your in love for i'm not the one to tell you not to get what you desire :)

    But just to let you know, the LED's on the 900 can be turned off easily, I have mine turned off in the front on the two fans because I don't like it either.  Also, I can understand about the clear side.  Personally, I have my clear side up against the wall so I never see it.

    Btw did you check out the last combo deal I showed yah?  That x6 can be easily oc'd to 3.2 - 3.3 steady.

  • WSIMikeWSIMike Member Posts: 5,564

    Originally posted by Mazin

    Originally posted by WSIMike


    Originally posted by Mazin

    Basically repeating what the others have told yah, 750w is way overkill for what you are gonna run.  I'd go with 650w, even 650 is overkill but like you I'd rather lean on the safe side; you could easily get away with 550-600w though.

    I'm not sure why you are so stoked about that case (but if you really like it then go for it), personally I like the antec 900.  The above poster linked to an antec 300 combo but the 300 is just a little small for me.  The 900 has about 1.5" more room than the 300 and with most graphics cards now adays it makes it much easier to put together with the 900.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=antec+nine+hundred&x=8&y=26

    I like that case in particular because it's very "streamlined"... so to speak. I'm not into the clear-sides or LED lights everywhere, or fins and such sticking out all over. The Lian-Li comes with an LED fan in the front, but I can easily replace it with a non-LED version.

    I just want a basic, low-profile case on the outside, but that is well setup on the inside. I checked out some reviews of cases from that same line (essentially the same case design, but with minor variances), and it just seems like the "right" case for what I'm after.

    Nah thats cool bro, if thats the case your in love for i'm not the one to tell you not to get what you desire :)

    But just to let you know, the LED's on the 900 can be turned off easily, I have mine turned off in the front on the two fans because I don't like it either.  Also, I can understand about the clear side.  Personally, I have my clear side up against the wall so I never see it.

    Btw did you check out the last combo deal I showed yah?  That x6 can be easily oc'd to 3.2 - 3.3 steady.

    Yep! I did check that out. Looks like a nice deal.

    When the time comes and I have the money actually on-hand to make the purchase, I'll be looking into all such options.

     

    Thanks again!

    "If you just step away for a sec you will clearly see all the pot holes in the road,
    and the cash shop selling asphalt..."
    - Mimzel on F2P/Cash Shops

    image

  • swing848swing848 Member UncommonPosts: 292

    The motherboard is well made and provides a lot of bang for the buck.  By just taking a quick look at the picture, the motherboard seems to be eight phase and I counted a total of 16 high quality chokes that were clearly seen, with plenty of MOSFETS with low RDS (on) and MOSFET drivers, which are good for overclocking and long life.
    Gigabyte motherboards play well with G.Skill RAM and it usually provides more performance for the same cost. 
    The PSU you selected is very good, I suggest you stay with it.
     

    Intel Core i7 7700K, MB is Gigabyte Z270X-UD5
    SSD x2, 4TB WD Black HHD, 32GB RAM, MSI GTX 980 Ti Lightning LE video card

  • KyntorKyntor Member Posts: 280

    Here is a good case/psu combo that will save you some money. I have personal experience with both and would recommend them.

    "Those who dislike things based only on the fact that they are popular are just as shallow and superficial as those who only like them for the same reason."

  • swing848swing848 Member UncommonPosts: 292

    If you find that you have a lack of funds take a look at the case and try to find one that is less expensive.  And, although I suggested that you purchase the 750 watt PSU, choosing a lower watt unit is ok as long as you stick with quality.  Remember that even though you may not exceed 300 watts, the more head room the PSU has the more it will not be under too much stress.  Running a PSU at near its capacity is hard on it.

    If a good 650 watt PSU only costs about $10 more than a good 550 watt PSU I would get the 650.

    I use a 650 watt Seasonic and it cost me $20 more than the 750 watt PSU you considered.  Also, I paid more for my UPS than I did for my PSU.  I want to keep my investment safe.  And, my current CPU has been happily overclocked since I purchased it, just over two years ago.

    I purchased my motherboard on 4 June 2006 and it has been overclocked since day one.  [I used to own an E4400 that would only do about 3.5GHz, however, the E8600 was faster due to the latter's much larger L2 cache, and much more overclockable.  Lower end Intel CPUs are mostly failed higher end parts, and thus normally do not overclock as well.]

    By the way, I think you asked a question in another thread regarding overclocking an E8200.  My CPU is an E8600 and happily runs at 4.2GHz on air, it will run faster but I am very conservative with how much voltage I use.  [Also, regarding comparisons, the E8600 uses a multiplier of 10 and is much easier on other hardware than an E8200 at the same speed.]

    If you find you are tight for money please post here before making a purchase so we can give you further guidance.

     

    EDIT:   Spotted a typo after I made the post.

    Intel Core i7 7700K, MB is Gigabyte Z270X-UD5
    SSD x2, 4TB WD Black HHD, 32GB RAM, MSI GTX 980 Ti Lightning LE video card

  • OzivoisOzivois Member UncommonPosts: 598

    Originally posted by WSIMike

    Hey all, me again.

    So, I'm going to be upgrading my system in the next few weeks (hopefully) and thougth I'd share what my tentative setup is going to be. I say tentative, because these components are an "ideal" of about the price range I'm looking to upgrade to. Of course, if there are better deals, or even just better choices available when I'm ready to buy, I'll adjust accordingly.

    I was wondering if some of the more hardware-savvy folks here might like to weigh in with opinions on the choices, make suggestions for better options (keeping +/- $10-20 in price), etc...

    So.. to start with, I already have a NVidia GTX460 1GB from MSI, so I'm set in the graphics dept (no interest in SLI really).

    Here are the components I currently have on my NewEgg wishlist:

    CPU

    Mobo - Not "married" to this choice, but it seems like a good option, especially for the price.

    RAM - same as Mobo, not "married" to this choice.

    PSU - Can maybe go a little lower on power for this? Would rather have more power than I need than not enough. Likely going to find a modular model where I can attach only the cables I need.

    Case - Really like this case. Simple, sleek and nicely setup inside.

     

    I'll also need a new DVD-ROM drive (which are very inexpensive). Also, I might get an after-market CPU FAN/Heatsink.... so something else to consider.

    Anyhoo... there's the base components... Have at it!

     

     That's alot for a case - AZZA has one at newegg that looks great and has LEDs and plenty of fans.  AZZA also sells a matching PSU - both cheap after rebates.  both highly rated

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517004

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817517002

    I have the case and the 850W Azza power supply and am happy so far

    You should really see about getting more that 4GB of RAM if you can - try to get to 6

    Regarding OCing the cpu - don't bother, focus on the gpu overclocking as that is 99% of what your games will use (and the RAM)

  • QuizzicalQuizzical Member LegendaryPosts: 25,353

    Originally posted by Ozivois

     That's alot for a case - AZZA has one at newegg that looks great and has LEDs and plenty of fans.  AZZA also sells a matching PSU - both cheap after rebates.  both highly rated

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517004

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817517002

    I have the case and the 850W Azza power supply and am happy so far

    You should really see about getting more that 4GB of RAM if you can - try to get to 6

    Regarding OCing the cpu - don't bother, focus on the gpu overclocking as that is 99% of what your games will use (and the RAM)

    Don't go cheap junk on the power supply.  If it's rated at 650 W in total but only 456 W on the +12 V rail, it's pretty much guaranteed to be cheap junk.  It's not 80 PLUS certified, either.  I'd bet that either of the Seasonic power supplies I linked above rated at 520 W could safely deliver more power under real world conditions than the "650 W" Azza power supply you linked--and likely by 100 W or more.

    The amount of memory that a system computer should have should nearly always be a power of two times the number of memory channels.  6 GB only makes sense if you've got 3 memory channels.  The only desktop processors with that are the socket LGA 1366 "Bloomfield" and "Gulftown" Core i7-9** ones.  Otherwise, you end up with mismatched memory channels that cripple your memory bandwidth and could sometimes improve performance by pulling out a memory module, throwing it in the garbage, and not replacing it.

  • MehveMehve Member Posts: 487

    Originally posted by Quizzical

    Don't go cheap junk on the power supply.  If it's rated at 650 W in total but only 456 W on the +12 V rail, it's pretty much guaranteed to be cheap junk.  It's not 80 PLUS certified, either.  I'd bet that either of the Seasonic power supplies I linked above rated at 520 W could safely deliver more power under real world conditions than the "650 W" Azza power supply you linked--and likely by 100 W or more.

    Nevermind not having 80-plus certification, that thing doesn't even have power factor correction. My money is on it being an old model that's been recabled with a 24-pin ATX and an 8-pin PCI-E cable. No excuse for buying one of those things these days, especially not for that price, with so many better quality models available.

    A Modest Proposal for MMORPGs:
    That the means of progression would not be mutually exclusive from the means of enjoyment.

  • QuizzicalQuizzical Member LegendaryPosts: 25,353

    Originally posted by Mehve

    Originally posted by Quizzical



    Don't go cheap junk on the power supply.  If it's rated at 650 W in total but only 456 W on the +12 V rail, it's pretty much guaranteed to be cheap junk.  It's not 80 PLUS certified, either.  I'd bet that either of the Seasonic power supplies I linked above rated at 520 W could safely deliver more power under real world conditions than the "650 W" Azza power supply you linked--and likely by 100 W or more.

    Nevermind not having 80-plus certification, that thing doesn't even have power factor correction. My money is on it being an old model that's been recabled with a 24-pin ATX and an 8-pin PCI-E cable. No excuse for buying one of those things these days, especially not for that price, with so many better quality models available.

    Not having active power factor correction is one thing that prevents it from being 80 PLUS certified, though probably not the only thing in this case.  I think power factor correction might be the biggest reason why the electric utilities created the 80 PLUS program in the first place, as they really, really hate power supplies that don't have active PFC.  Active PFC isn't something that particularly matters to the end user, though.

  • MehveMehve Member Posts: 487

    True, although its absence tends to be a big hint that the PSU was either 1) manufactured before there was much awareness about PSU quality, or 2) was made more recently, but the company was cutting costs to the absolute bone. And given that PFC tends to lower efficiency by a percentage point or two, the advertised 78% effiiciency is a little less impressive still.

    A Modest Proposal for MMORPGs:
    That the means of progression would not be mutually exclusive from the means of enjoyment.

  • swing848swing848 Member UncommonPosts: 292

    To the OP.  Ozivois did his best to provide you with information, however, it is obvious to me that he or she does not have a good understanding of computer hardware.  There are a great many people that try to help when in fact they do not know what they are talking about and some times cause more harm than good.

    When you ask hardware advice at any forum look closely at all of the posts.  Are there any arguments against someone else's suggestions, and are there reasons to back up the arguments.  Is there more than one person that provides information that disputes another?  Are links provided to back up statements, clerify, or provide proof or educational information?

    80 Plus Program [Click on the Power Supplies hot link on the left sided of the screen for a list of certified power supplies] http://www.80plus.org/

    This person knows power supplies:  http://www.jonnyguru.com/index.php

    When it comes to how much memory is needed for programs to run smoothly the operating system has to be taken into consideration.  Windows XP requires 2GB, Windows Vista and Windows 7 require 4GB.  Note that I have found that all of those operating systems run demanding programs more smoothly, including some games, if 2GB more is added.

    Based upon the above I personally ran 4GB of RAM with Windows XP and I am using 8GB of RAM with Windows Vista 64-bit.

    As already mentioned, the amount of RAM the motherboard accomodates also needs to be looked at.  My ancient Gigabyte P35-DS3R has 4 RAM slots [or sockets], as does the GIGABYTE GA-870A-UD3 AM3 AMD you originally listed, as does Intel based socket 1156.  

    However, Intel socket 1366 utilizes a total of 6 RAM slots [sockets] and therefore the suggested minimum amount of RAM for any OS should not be below 3GB, because all three lanes should be populated for best data transfer speed.  On these motherboards almost everyone uses 6GB located in 3 slots [sockets].

    There is a great deal of information in this thread.  Please to not allow the amount of information overwhelm you and thus discourage you.  Read everyone's posts over and think about what was said.  Give yourself a little time to let it sink in, to help you grasp it, so you will again feel comfortable about building your new system.

    Intel Core i7 7700K, MB is Gigabyte Z270X-UD5
    SSD x2, 4TB WD Black HHD, 32GB RAM, MSI GTX 980 Ti Lightning LE video card

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