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My SSD failed today. Need advice on a new one please.

HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839

I can grab whatever I guess. $100 range give or take a little.  Slightly shocked it's dead.  But the pc was on 24/7. Think what did it in was a power surge , flicker.  PSU Did not take anything else.  Not sure if it's bad. It wasn't a bad surge but woke up to errors. Was laying in bed when it happened. On a surge protector to.   I should not have left it on in the storm.  Lesson learned. SSD Shows up sometimes, other times it doesn't.  Fairly certain it's dead.   Was a Kingston hyperx sh103s3 120 gb. 

Amazon prime or new egg.  No idea what to get.  PSU isn't that old capstone 650w 80 plus gold. With the the drive not hooked up everything else seems fine.  Everything was bought and built in december.  Just thankful that I didn't loose much data or anything else.   Definitely going to look into something to protect my pic better.

thanks for any help 

James

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Comments

  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383

    Ouch, sorry to hear it. Strange that it got your SSD, this is the first SSD I've heard of going to a brownout/outage (although I have heard of some HDDs doing so).

    I agree with your first sentence - you can pretty well grab whatever that fits your budget.

    On a bright note - just in time for a fresh Win10 install...

    For better protection - I recommend a UPS with Voltage Correction (APC calls it AVR, some CyberPower models have it, other brands vary)... the voltage correction will cost a bit more, but will protect your PC from brown outs and voltage dips as well as full blown outages - and those events are the absolute worst for electronics. These models start at about $125US and run all the way up to what you want to pay for in terms of capacity.

    I've never found "pure sine" output to matter much to electronics, particularly in active PFC-based power supplies (which are what most modern PSUs are). It does matter for some analog equipment - AC motors and analog hi-fi stereo equipment in particular, but a computer, your power supply is the only thing that sees it, and it doesn't really care all that much.

    You also don't need a lot of capacity (minutes/hours/AH/however they rate it)- or rather, you'll get what you pay for in that regard, but most even entry-level UPSs will keep you up for a handful of minutes while playing, and all they really need to do is keep you up long enough to do a clean shutdown of your system.

  • MickyknoxMickyknox Member UncommonPosts: 61

    I bought a Samsung SSD works well this is a link to the one i got and were i bought it 

    http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX55511

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839

    thought that I might have done something stupid. Virus lock it up. But no, definitely seems like it failed. It is very problematic when it's detected, shortly locking up.  Even when booting from disk. Like now just had it lock up trying a quick format on the windows installer and can't even do that before it locks.  Sometimes it shows other times it doesn't. Was a lightening bolt nearby. Maybe a block away if that.  Going to invest in better protection. While it sucks.  It would really suck if it took more than an SSD.

    alrighty guess all pretty safe to buy at this point? Going to do research and try one of the top brands even if it costs more.

     

    Added: Sometimes showing and not showing in bios after checking cables makes me feel it is going bad. When it is detected, shortly after windows screen even if I boot from disk in safe mode it locks. I woke up to an odd error screen to. I dunno been at it 6-7 hours or so.

    cant do much if I can't keep it from locking my pic up or if it's not being detected.  Everything else seems fine. Almost installed windows on my data drive but rather not.

  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383

    Top brands on SSDs I would say:
    Intel, Samsung, Crucial, and maybe OCZ (now owned by Toshiba). The first three make most of their own components rather than using cookie-cutter stuff, and OCZ has been making SSDs particularly for gamers and enthusiasts for a good while now with mixed, but mostly good, results.

    Those are the names I can think of that have been in it the longest, and have a decent reputation. Past that, YMMV -- most other manufacturers and drives are nearly cookie cutter: you get a controller chip from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you get NAND from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you pay one of 3-4 Chinese factories to solder them together on a PCB, and you slap your sticker on the box.

  • mbrodiembrodie Member RarePosts: 1,504
    Originally posted by Ridelynn

    Top brands on SSDs I would say:
    Intel, Samsung, Crucial, and maybe OCZ (now owned by Toshiba). The first three make most of their own components rather than using cookie-cutter stuff, and OCZ has been making SSDs particularly for gamers and enthusiasts for a good while now with mixed, but mostly good, results.

    Those are the names I can think of that have been in it the longest, and have a decent reputation. Past that, YMMV -- most other manufacturers and drives are nearly cookie cutter: you get a controller chip from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you get NAND from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you pay one of 3-4 Chinese factories to solder them together on a PCB, and you slap your sticker on the box.

     

    ehh i mean i've had an OCZ power supply, RMA it after 4 months got a replacement, 2 months later that one died too.. bought a corsair

    had OCZ ram... had to get it replaced 3 times...

    bought an OCZ SSD like 3 years ago, it died after 2 months i think... took it back got them to swap it for a corsair on the spot...

     

    i will literally never touch OCZ again... just so much drama and time spent without parts / replacing parts... i now have 2 x Samsung EVO 850 500gb and they're amazing, i'd highly recommend samsung 850s

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by Ridelynn

    Top brands on SSDs I would say:
    Intel, Samsung, Crucial, and maybe OCZ (now owned by Toshiba). The first three make most of their own components rather than using cookie-cutter stuff, and OCZ has been making SSDs particularly for gamers and enthusiasts for a good while now with mixed, but mostly good, results.

    Those are the names I can think of that have been in it the longest, and have a decent reputation. Past that, YMMV -- most other manufacturers and drives are nearly cookie cutter: you get a controller chip from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you get NAND from one of 3-4 manufacturers, you pay one of 3-4 Chinese factories to solder them together on a PCB, and you slap your sticker on the box.

    Thank You

    james

     

    almost thinking about changing my PSU too.  I'd shit if it took anything else. I honestly don't think it would. but not going to gamble with over 1k on the line. My luck is bad in such scenarios

  • CleffyCleffy Member RarePosts: 6,412
    When I bought my system in January, the best SSD option was Crucial. Not sure how that's changed since then. Usually Intel and Samsung are at top. The difficult part is telling if an SSD is a 4 year old part or brand new since they are not labeled very well. My Crucial is an MX100, they also have the MX200 and BX100 which are current.
    When I changed my PSU, I did ALOT of research. The best options depend on the amount of money you want to spend and target power draw.
  • BraindomeBraindome Member UncommonPosts: 959

    I know you are probably wanting to replace the drive with another SSD, but if price and size are a factor I highly suggest an SSHD. I have been quite pleased with mine and it is a nice middle of the road option for the time being and I recommend it to anyone who wants a good large fast drive for a great price:

    http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DX001/dp/B00EIQTKAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438229440&sr=1-1&keywords=sshd

     

  • H0urg1assH0urg1ass Member EpicPosts: 2,380

    If you're performing read operations for the most part, then pretty much any SSD will do.  For that I prefer the Crucial series.  They're economical with good performance.  I avoid OCZ as I had my very first OCZ SSD crash within four months of owning it.  The Crucial that I replaced it with has been speeding on since 2011.

    If write operations are also important, then Samsung is the best choice. The 8XX Pro series are the most highly rated SSD's on the market.

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    When I bought my system in January, the best SSD option was Crucial. Not sure how that's changed since then. Usually Intel and Samsung are at top. When I changed my PSU, I did ALOT of research. The best options depend on the amount of money you want to spend and target power draw.

    I got some research to do I guess. I do know that there is that one really good review site for psu's. name escapes me atm. anything that gets high marks in their tests is certainly good if they still test the same way. Actually learned about the site from people here. I'll post back if I have any questions. Prob post what I am going to get before I buy. I don't completely trust myself. But I need to do bulk of looking. Can't expect others to do it for me  I don't need top performance. Just reliable. And to not leave my pic on when storm is right on top of the house

  • H0urg1assH0urg1ass Member EpicPosts: 2,380
    Originally posted by Hulluck
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    When I bought my system in January, the best SSD option was Crucial. Not sure how that's changed since then. Usually Intel and Samsung are at top. When I changed my PSU, I did ALOT of research. The best options depend on the amount of money you want to spend and target power draw.

    I got some research to do I guess. I do know that there is that one really good review site for psu's. name escapes me atm. anything that gets high marks in their tests is certainly good if they still test the same way. Actually learned about the site from people here. I'll post back if I have any questions. Prob post what I am going to get before I buy. I don't completely trust myself. But I need to do bulk of looking. Can't expect others to do it for me  I don't need top performance. Just reliable. And to not leave my pic on when storm is right on top of the house

    PSU's are a huge nightmare once you start researching them.  What a lot of big label companies do is buy their PSU's from a manufacturer and relabel them with their own name.  Corsair, for instance, doesn't make PSU's.  They just buy them from several different companies and rebrand them.

    Their high end PSU's are rebranded Seasonic PSU's and their low end PSU's... well you don't even want to go near them.

    Personally, I only buy Seasonics or if a Corsair AX series PSU goes on sale for pretty cheap, then I will buy that instead.

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by h0urg1ass
    Originally posted by Hulluck
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    When I bought my system in January, the best SSD option was Crucial. Not sure how that's changed since then. Usually Intel and Samsung are at top. When I changed my PSU, I did ALOT of research. The best options depend on the amount of money you want to spend and target power draw.

    I got some research to do I guess. I do know that there is that one really good review site for psu's. name escapes me atm. anything that gets high marks in their tests is certainly good if they still test the same way. Actually learned about the site from people here. I'll post back if I have any questions. Prob post what I am going to get before I buy. I don't completely trust myself. But I need to do bulk of looking. Can't expect others to do it for me  I don't need top performance. Just reliable. And to not leave my pic on when storm is right on top of the house

    PSU's are a huge nightmare once you start researching them.  What a lot of big label companies do is buy their PSU's from a manufacturer and relabel them with their own name.  Corsair, for instance, doesn't make PSU's.  They just buy them from several different companies and rebrand them.

    Their high end PSU's are rebranded Seasonic PSU's and their low end PSU's... well you don't even want to go near them.

    Personally, I only buy Seasonics or if a Corsair AX series PSU goes on sale for pretty cheap, then I will buy that instead.

    Yeah. With my level of knowledge. I got to learn a lot to. If I can recall that one site though. O something I think. I can find it. maybe. I don't know. Always a headache. Got so much going on right now to. Really didn't need this right now. I might not even fix it just let it sit.   I think the PSU definitely needs to be changed if something failed. Always been what people say. It makes sense.

  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383

    I trust HardOCP reviews for PSUs. If a unit passes there, even if it doesn't win an award, it's a good unit. They put PSUs through hell.

    That being said, I know that traditional HDDs could fail even under a good PSU if you cycled power to them very quickly (on-off-on). Some solid state devices can have an issue with it as well - so it's not a given that your PSU is bad, but I'd agree that it's good insurance on a $1000 build.

  • nbtscannbtscan Member UncommonPosts: 862
    I've had good luck with Intel and Crucial SSDs.  You might be able to find something in the 256GB range for $100 if it's on sale.
  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by Ridelynn

    I trust HardOCP reviews for PSUs. If a unit passes there, even if it doesn't win an award, it's a good unit. They put PSUs through hell.

    That being said, I know that traditional HDDs could fail even under a good PSU if you cycled power to them very quickly (on-off-on). Some solid state devices can have an issue with it as well - so it's not a given that your PSU is bad, but I'd agree that it's good insurance on a $1000 build.

    That's the site. Thank you.  I haven't had time to fool with it today.  Been rebuilding my jeep. been costly.  I am going to get way better protection for it to.  Those things you were talking about earlier.  Seen them before and now will always have one. You're awesome.  I was looking at ssd's last night Jesus they came way down in price.

  • KyutaSyukoKyutaSyuko Member UncommonPosts: 288
    Originally posted by h0urg1ass

    If you're performing read operations for the most part, then pretty much any SSD will do.  For that I prefer the Crucial series.  They're economical with good performance.  I avoid OCZ as I had my very first OCZ SSD crash within four months of owning it.  The Crucial that I replaced it with has been speeding on since 2011.

    If write operations are also important, then Samsung is the best choice. The 8XX Pro series are the most highly rated SSD's on the market.

    The Samsung 850 Evo isn't too far behind the Pro counterpart in performance and costs ~$0.50/Gb last time I checked...

  • QuizzicalQuizzical Member LegendaryPosts: 25,353

    If your SSD is still under warranty, I'd send it in for a replacement.  SSD warranties seem to typically be in the ballpark of three years.  If your SSD was five years old, then I wouldn't be that surprised that it eventually died.

    At the first sign that your storage might not be working flawlessly, it's good to back up anything you care about immediately.  If you've already got all the data you care about, good.  If not, you can try plugging it in to a different computer to see if you can at least read some data off of it, even if some data is corrupted or it's otherwise not stable enough to run an OS on it.

  • jonp200jonp200 Member UncommonPosts: 457

    Personally like Samsung but most are fine..

     

    Agree with some of the other posters here too.  Having a decent APC for your system is great if the power goes out but more importantly for maintaining clean power - nice regular cycles for your expensive PC...

     

    Many homes particularly older ones have "dirty" power that cycles all over the place and that can do a number on your electronics...

    Seaspite
    Playing ESO on my X-Box


  • Loke666Loke666 Member EpicPosts: 21,441
    Originally posted by Quizzical

    If your SSD is still under warranty, I'd send it in for a replacement.  SSD warranties seem to typically be in the ballpark of three years.  If your SSD was five years old, then I wouldn't be that surprised that it eventually died.

    At the first sign that your storage might not be working flawlessly, it's good to back up anything you care about immediately.  If you've already got all the data you care about, good.  If not, you can try plugging it in to a different computer to see if you can at least read some data off of it, even if some data is corrupted or it's otherwise not stable enough to run an OS on it.

    Yeah, worth a try. My Corsair just died a day and nothing I did made me get any data from it but I do backup important stuff so I was mainly trying to recover the data to see if I could.

    In my experience is saving data generally easier from regular drives, they often warn us before dying. SSDs are worse that way.

    The only way to have your data relatively safe have always been backups and raiding. Some people say that raiding on SSDs cause problems but I myself ran 4 Intel X-25 in raid 5 for 3 years before upgrading and friends have raided SSDs as well, works fine.

    So either: run frequent backups or get 2 identical SSDs and raid them in Raid 1 (total mirror so if 1 drive dies the other still have all data). Or don't have stuff on a single drive you can't lose.

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839

    Thinking about the

     

    seasonic platinum 660.  Hardocp gives it great marks.  .  I also will try and Rma the Kingston but going to pick up a Samsung. Just need to get my pc  working.  Still looking at UPS's .   No idea what to look for in those. 

     

    Anyone have aver thoughts on a UPS.  Found one I started to get interested in then saw it had reviews from 06.  Which made me think there must be something more current. That maybe something so old is lacking design features.   Looking in the $100 range little wiggle room.  I don't even know a review site for these.  Little surprised hardocp doesn't have a section for them.

  • CleffyCleffy Member RarePosts: 6,412
    Good choice on PSU. I am using the Seasonic X650. That one is a step up from that. I would definitely look at the prices. I went with the X650 to save $40. If you can get the 660XP for about the same as the X650, its definitely worth it.
    I use the CyberPower CP1350. The cost is a bit heavy, but it has lasted me a number of years so far and has done its job of regulating power when delivery becomes sporadic.
  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    Good choice on PSU. I am using the Seasonic X650. That one is a step up from that. I would definitely look at the prices. I went with the X650 to save $40. If you can get the 660XP for about the same as the X650, its definitely worth it.
    I use the CyberPower CP1350. The cost is a bit heavy, but it has lasted me a number of years so far and has done its job of regulating power when delivery becomes sporadic.

    .  I was looking at that one and the one just below it in price range.  A cp1350 .   everytime I look I learn something new.  Simulated sine wave / pure.   Might go with a smaller pure sine wave from them. I don't need it to stay on long.  Just to keep my pc protected. The smallest pure they have comes at about the same price as the one I linked. All gibberish to me atm. 

     

     

    Is THIS one big enough for my pc? Even if it only lasts a few minutes, that is fine.  I don't do work on my pc. Just recreation mostly. Can I hook my monitor up to it as well with no worries? Read simulated could cause damage to a monitor. What about a big screen tv to?  Not a must but would be nice since desk is right here next to it. Figure might ass well protect it to if I can. Though not the priority and not to worried about it if I can't.

     

    The last edit. Looking at new egg there is the 1000 va 600 watt pure sine wave for $139.99.   I don't want to break the 150 mark.  Out of my comfort zone but I just want piece of mind.  Not sure if the 1000 watt model is big enough over the other but price difference is only a few dollars literally.

  • GruntyGrunty Member EpicPosts: 8,657
    Originally posted by Hulluck
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    Good choice on PSU. I am using the Seasonic X650. That one is a step up from that. I would definitely look at the prices. I went with the X650 to save $40. If you can get the 660XP for about the same as the X650, its definitely worth it.
    I use the CyberPower CP1350. The cost is a bit heavy, but it has lasted me a number of years so far and has done its job of regulating power when delivery becomes sporadic.

    .  I was looking at that one and the one just below it in price range.  A cp1350 .   everytime I look I learn something new.  Simulated sine wave / pure.   Might go with a smaller pure sine wave from them. I don't need it to stay on long.  Just to keep my pc protected. The smallest pure they have comes at about the same price as the one I linked. All gibberish to me atm. 

     

     

    Is THIS one big enough for my pc? Even if it only lasts a few minutes, that is fine.  I don't do work on my pc. Just recreation mostly. Can I hook my monitor up to it as well with no worries? Read simulated could cause damage to a monitor. What about a big screen tv to?  Not a must but would be nice since desk is right here next to it. Figure might ass well protect it to if I can. Though not the priority and not to worried about it if I can't.

    If you don't plug your monitor into the UPS then you won't be able to see anything.

    All electronics that have value to you should at least have surge protection. That may include your refrigerator, washer, dryer, tv, stereo... If you own your home it might be worth looking at a whole house surge protection solution.

     

    Surge protection and UPSes will not protect against EMP pulses or very massive solar storms.  There have been a few solar storms that damaged equipment in a few locales. Scientists have said we are due for a solar storm that might cause significant electronic failures.

    Air burst nuclear weapons are the second greatest potential for EMP bursts that could destroy electronics over most of the world. If that were to happen there wouldn't be any electricity distribution anyway. Your car wouldn't work either unless it were more than 40 years old.. Your concern about this may vary depending on your thoughts about potential future wars.

     

    "I used to think the worst thing in life was to be all alone.  It's not.  The worst thing in life is to end up with people who make you feel all alone."  Robin Williams
  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    Originally posted by Grunty
    Originally posted by Hulluck
    Originally posted by Cleffy
    Good choice on PSU. I am using the Seasonic X650. That one is a step up from that. I would definitely look at the prices. I went with the X650 to save $40. If you can get the 660XP for about the same as the X650, its definitely worth it.
    I use the CyberPower CP1350. The cost is a bit heavy, but it has lasted me a number of years so far and has done its job of regulating power when delivery becomes sporadic.

    .  I was looking at that one and the one just below it in price range.  A cp1350 .   everytime I look I learn something new.  Simulated sine wave / pure.   Might go with a smaller pure sine wave from them. I don't need it to stay on long.  Just to keep my pc protected. The smallest pure they have comes at about the same price as the one I linked. All gibberish to me atm. 

     

     

    Is THIS one big enough for my pc? Even if it only lasts a few minutes, that is fine.  I don't do work on my pc. Just recreation mostly. Can I hook my monitor up to it as well with no worries? Read simulated could cause damage to a monitor. What about a big screen tv to?  Not a must but would be nice since desk is right here next to it. Figure might ass well protect it to if I can. Though not the priority and not to worried about it if I can't.

    If you don't plug your monitor into the UPS then you won't be able to see anything.

    All electronics that have value to you should at least have surge protection. That may include your refrigerator, washer, dryer, tv, stereo... If you own your home it might be worth looking at a whole house surge protection solution.

    It was on a surge protector.  It was a quick flicker from a nearby lightening struck that shut everything off and on again. Not common around here but happens. Guess a ups will protect against that.  Maybe it was a fluke .    I'm trying to make sure that is never the cause of a failure again. First time anything failed on me and it's got me paranoid and thankfull all I lost was a ssd. Just trying to protect my money.  

     

    Reason i'm asking about my monitor is I've read that some ups's can actually be harmful to monitors from what I read.    I'm interested in the last ups I linked to in the previous thread. Last edit. Don't have a clue though if that will work.  Don't have the money for putting one on my whole house. Rebuilding two vehicles atm. Don't have the money for this honestly.

     

    not sure what the rest of your post about other than over the top gibberish.  Is it that absurd to protect against current fluctuations?  Not sure how emp solar storms or anything else got brought into this.  But could get interesting.  Have at it.  

  • HulluckHulluck Member UncommonPosts: 839
    your post had nothing to do with anything. clear difference between a surge protector and a ups. huge difference in quality of ups's. which is what i'm asking about. for the record no you dont have to have a monitor plugged into the ups. matter of fact its detrimental in some cases. will harm it. what my post is asking about. i also dont know if it will be detrimental below a given wattage. to much strain. if you want to help then do so other wise piss off grunty. you drunk or what? trying to figure out what i wrote that warrented such crap. a failure is stressfull especially given the time it happened.





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