Look on tomshardware for the socket you need for your CPU. Do not go for popularity because it could just be marketing and not allot else (not saying it is but I've seen people buy Iphones with the same logic).
Funnily enough I saw them in that website some top voters where stating that asus is better than msi because msi uses parts with less quality or something.
Originally posted by Bloodaxes Funnily enough I saw them in that website some top voters where stating that asus is better than msi because msi uses parts with less quality or something.
That's a common myth by what I understand amongst people... I dislike MSI personally on aesthetics ). Look at professional reviews not word of mouth (otherwise you get: Radeon sucks ass because Nvidia is more expensive!).
(With the GTX 660 it's around 630 euro while with the GTX 760 it's around 685 euro)
My suggestions for what its worth.
CPU is fine. However you have no cpu cooler listed, Unless i missed where you had one in a previous post. If you dont have one spend the 30 bucks on a decent air cooler, no sense in getting a K series cpu and putting a stock cooler on it. Or for using a stock intel cooler anyways.
Ram- Go with 8gb for now, can always pop in another 8 later if you feel the need. Very easy to upgrade so no use in buying more than you will need when on a budget. Also you do not want to put 12gb in there. 4 / 8 / 16 will allow the dual channel to work properly.
Mobo- Do you plan on using Triple SLI / Xfire? or even SLI / xfire period? If not then I would buy a cheaper mobo with the features you need. You are paying extra for a top end motherboard & features you wont use or need. IMO that money could be better spent on a GPU upgrade to a 770
GPU- Personally I would just run the 460 until you had the extra cash for a 770. May take a month or 2 ( or 4 ) but it will be worth the wait. Over buying a 660 now.
Arma 3s problem with stuttering is probably not you, more the engine. And very well may still suffer the same issues with a new card.
All in all I would say buy 8gb RAM now, a CPU cooler, a cheaper mobo and use the 460 until you can get a 770.
Well for the CPU I have an additional fan over my current CPU and the side of the case is off. It produces that much heat on stock values? I don't think I'll be having heat problems until I try and OC and by then I can always pop a cooler.
I see no point in SLI, for me is just a waste of money for gaming. So yes, I won't be using 2 GPUs. By cheaper you mean a Z87? or even more cheap? I was looking at the Z97 since people say it produces less heat and supports some new features since it's one of the newest.
As for GPU as much as I'd like the 770 I'm not going to spend 300-400 (Not sure on the cost) on 1 part. The 760 costing almost half looks nicer in my eyes and pockets.
The 760 would still be very good for a while just not the best of the line.
Just like to say that while I'm listing the GPU nothing has been bought yet AND the GPU won't be bought with the other parts as I don't have sufficient funds for all the parts altogether.
Originally posted by Bloodaxes Thanks for the reply.
Well for the CPU I have an additional fan over my current CPU and the side of the case is off. It produces that much heat on stock values? I don't think I'll be having heat problems until I try and OC and by then I can always pop a cooler.
I see no point in SLI, for me is just a waste of money for gaming. So yes, I won't be using 2 GPUs. By cheaper you mean a Z87? or even more cheap? I was looking at the Z97 since people say it produces less heat and supports some new features since it's one of the newest.
As for GPU as much as I'd like the 770 I'm not going to spend 300-400 (Not sure on the cost) on 1 part. The 760 costing almost half looks nicer in my eyes and pockets.
The 760 would still be very good for a while just not the best of the line.
Just like to say that while I'm listing the GPU nothing has been bought yet AND the GPU won't be bought with the other parts as I don't have sufficient funds for all the parts altogether.
Intel will work fine at stock speeds with the stock cooler; everyone is just questioning if your willing to paying the extra money for the K-edition (which the only difference is the ability to overclock), but not willing to get a cooler to go with it to at least enable overclocking.
For most people, the intent of putting together a computer isn't for the ability of it to run only with extra fans pointed on it and the case cover removed. It's for it to work properly completely assembled. That may mean extra cooling fans installed in the case, or a bigger case, or something - but most people don't upgrade just to keep the same interim haphazard solutions they had been living with in the past.
Less expensive motherboard doesn't mean changing chipsets, just going with one with fewer features. The Maximus VI Hero, for instance, is made for semi-agressive overclocking and moderately high-end SLI/Crossfire. It's a Z87 board, which is fine, but you could go to something much less expensive (Asus Z87-A, for example) - which supports the same RAM, CPU, Graphics card, just lacks a lot of bells and whistles. If your not going to SLI/Overclock, or spend $35 on a better heatsink, and that's really what the extra your paying for in the Maximus is there for, then why not save $70 and go with the Z87-A instead, and maybe save another $25 and go to the i5 4570.
The savings on those two components alone, since you aren't considering overclocking anyway, is just about the same as the difference between a nVIdia 660 and 770 GPU, so you would get the same level of performance from the motherboard/CPU, be able to jump a generation and a tier on the graphics, and keep the same budget.
I'd opt in for a cooler even if you aren't going to OC right away. With an 212 Evo I"m not completely happy with my temps. They are alright. I guess that I just expected a little better out of the cooler under load.
Intel will work fine at stock speeds with the stock cooler; everyone is just questioning if your willing to paying the extra money for the K-edition (which the only difference is the ability to overclock), but not willing to get a cooler to go with it to at least enable overclocking.
For most people, the intent of putting together a computer isn't for the ability of it to run only with extra fans pointed on it and the case cover removed. It's for it to work properly completely assembled. That may mean extra cooling fans installed in the case, or a bigger case, or something - but most people don't upgrade just to keep the same interim haphazard solutions they had been living with in the past.
Less expensive motherboard doesn't mean changing chipsets, just going with one with fewer features. The Maximus VI Hero, for instance, is made for semi-agressive overclocking and moderately high-end SLI/Crossfire. It's a Z87 board, which is fine, but you could go to something much less expensive (Asus Z87-A, for example) - which supports the same RAM, CPU, Graphics card, just lacks a lot of bells and whistles. If your not going to SLI/Overclock, or spend $35 on a better heatsink, and that's really what the extra your paying for in the Maximus is there for, then why not save $70 and go with the Z87-A instead, and maybe save another $25 and go to the i5 4570.
The savings on those two components alone, since you aren't considering overclocking anyway, is just about the same as the difference between a nVIdia 660 and 770 GPU, so you would get the same level of performance from the motherboard/CPU, be able to jump a generation and a tier on the graphics, and keep the same budget.
Thanks for the reply.
Well for the CPU part, the difference between the 4670 and 4670k price is a messly 4-6 dollars, hardly expensive.
I am not good on motherboards so I might sound dumb, but overclocking on the motherboard means overclocking the motherboard itself or to support overclocking on other parts attached to it?
As for cooler for the 4670k what would you guys suggest? If I am going to get a "cheaper" motherboard I can fit a cooler I think. Atm the cooler I have is the Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-64-pro.html
I might consider overclocking the CPU and if the Z87-A (For instance) is not suitable, I would like to know before buying it. Apart of the Z87 I keep on seeing the H87 listed which is ultimately the motherboard for non overclocking SLI board right?
As for cooler for the 4670k what would you guys suggest? If I am going to get a "cheaper" motherboard I can fit a cooler I think. Atm the cooler I have is the Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-64-pro.html
I'm 99% sure that you can use the old CPU cooler. CBA to google more and be 100% sure.
Regarding MBO, don't go cheap. Cheap MBO means less OC potential, which wouldn't make sense if you buy OC CPU. You either buy overclocking parts or you don't. Don't go halfway.
A Core i5-4670K is rated at 84 W. Motherboards, power supplies, coolers, and so forth built to handle it can supply and/or dissipate 84 W just fine. But if you give it a hefty overclock, it might put out 150 W instead. Many motherboards aren't built to deliver 150 W while keeping the voltages steady, and many CPU coolers aren't built to dissipate 150 W. You'd also want a power supply that keeps voltages stable to make things easier on the motherboard and a case that can readily dissipate that much heat if you're looking for that sort of overclock.
Some motherboards are built to be able to deliver 100 W no problem, but seriously risk frying things if the CPU pulls 150 W from them--because it's cheaper to build that way than to be safe at 150 W, too. There's nothing "defective" about such a motherboard; it's just not meant for overclocking. The major motherboard vendors each have a bunch of models and the bottom end ones generally won't overclock much, but the top end ones may be able to deliver 300 W or more to a CPU--far more than you could ever get the CPU to pull by anything short of liquid nitrogen overclocking.
AsRock and MSI have lineups that most cleanly sort the motherboards in a lineup based on the numbers at the end. For AsRock, "Pro" means "don't overclock this", while "Extreme" can probably handle some overclocking, though I wouldn't trust AsRock's lower end "Extreme" motherboards for a big overclock. For Gigabyte, UD-anything (as opposed to just a D without a U, or DS-something) at the end of the model name should be able to handle a big overclock. Asus doesn't so clearly label their motherboards to make it clear that this one is higher end than that one.
You can tell quite a bit by looking at the motherboard. If oriented such that the CPU socket is toward the top left, the power circuitry will generally be above and to the left of the CPU, typically with cube-shaped things kind of near the CPU socket and other stuff often covered by heatsinks a little further back. Lower end motherboards often have less power circuitry and only put it to the left of the CPU, rather than also having some above it.
The cube things are power circuitry that operate in parallel to each other and connected to VRMs that are often covered up. A motherboard with more copies of one of them tends to be built to deliver more power to the CPU. But not all power phases are identical, and one of some particular model may be able to safely deliver twice as much power as one of some other model. AsRock in particular tends to go for more, weaker power phases. Still, within a given lineup (meaning, restricting to a certain brand and chipset), if power phases on different motherboards look identical, they probably are. If the bottom few motherboards in a lineup have five power phases, and the next one up has eight, there's a pretty good chance that the one with eight is built much more for overclocking than the ones below it. Again, this only applies within a particular lineup, and don't try to make this comparison between motherboards of different brands.
Another thing you can look at is heat sinks on the VRMs. VRMs convert voltages from the +12 V coming from the power supply to the 1.2 V or so that the CPU wants (it varies by CPU, and by clock speed even for a fixed CPU), and release some heat in the process. They get worse at this conversion as they get hotter, so while VRMs with no heatsink may be fine at stock speeds, it can often be a problem if you overclock. Motherboards built for overclocking typically cover the VRMs with heatsinks to allow them to dissipate more heat.
One final thing to look at is whether the motherboard has a 4-pin or 8-pin CPU power connector. There will be a plug with a grid of holes in either a 2x2 or 4x2 array near the CPU. If a motherboard has the former, it's not built to take that much power from the power supply and pass it along to the CPU. Again, that's fine at stock speeds, but a motherboard built for big overclocks will have an 8-pin CPU power connector. Don't get too caught up in this, though, as an 8-pin power connector doesn't add much to the cost as compared to 4-pin (unlike power phases, where more and higher quality does add substantial cost), and some motherboards not meant to overclock will still have an 8-pin CPU power connector.
Finally, no matter what motherboard you get, it will have a far easier time delivering the desired power to the CPU if the input power from the power supply is cleaner: low ripple, voltages that don't change much with load, and voltage near 12.0 V on the +12 V rail. If you're looking to overclock, don't rely on one good component to make up for another bad component. You want high quality stuff all the way through.
That will do everything you need to do and more. You are not a power user and unless you just want to spend the money on a mobo with features you may not even understand how to use then save the money.
From reading your posts you may not even have a basic understanding on overclocking. If you want to spend the money on a K version cpu then all good, its not that much more and will allow you to OC at some point if you want. You can do basic small overclocking on a mid priced mobo like the one listed if you so desire. Spending 200 on an awesome mobo that will never be fully used is a waste of your funds.
You do want to get a good cpu cooler. Pointing another fan at the CPU with the case door off for cooling is half assed at best, and may screw your system up at worst. Try to move away fro such measures. Dont upgrade to these parts and skimp $30 on a cpu cooler only to have to leave the case open with a box fan pointed into it for cooling. Get the system closed up and sealed is the goal lol.
Its your money to spend how you like. I would recommend going with a lower cost motherboard like I listed, or something in that price range, a cpu cooler to start with ( putting one on later is a pain and not worth skimping on to save a small amount). Get a 770 with the cost saving and a few extra dollars, you will be glad you did as that will last.
Either way I hope it works out for you=)
Edit;
I am not sure what OCing you can do on the G43 I listed above, here is a link to a G55 which is $20 more but has a few more features and is a better board overall.
I did OC my current GPU and my older one but never tried the CPU.
I could go with a Z87 too as I said it's around 50 sterlin cheaper than the Z97. At first I was looking at that MSI board but keep on reading the quality of the parts is not that great compared to asus.
So in other words my current CPU cooler is not good? The Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2.
My case (Raidmax Ninja) sadly doesn't have much area of ventilation if I keep the case side closed. My older GPU (GTS 250 512 MB) in summer while playing it would reach on 100 degrees and made the room so hot I was worried. Removing the side and new GPU the temperature reduced by around 30%.
Now I even got that CPU cooler which should have lowered it even more.
I did OC my current GPU and my older one but never tried the CPU.
I could go with a Z87 too as I said it's around 50 sterlin cheaper than the Z97. At first I was looking at that MSI board but keep on reading the quality of the parts is not that great compared to asus.
So in other words my current CPU cooler is not good? The Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2.
My case (Raidmax Ninja) sadly doesn't have much area of ventilation if I keep the case side closed. My older GPU (GTS 250 512 MB) in summer while playing it would reach on 100 degrees and made the room so hot I was worried. Removing the side and new GPU the temperature reduced by around 30%.
Now I even got that CPU cooler which should have lowered it even more.
I googled Raidmax Ninja and that case should be ok for ventilation for standard use. Just check you fan placement and direction so air is moving in and out.
The cooler you listed should be fine. If you are still getting temps 100 or above then that would be strange. With the front case fan blowing in, the rear blowing out and the small fan on the side blowing in you should have air flow sufficient to cool the PC. Not sure if that case has a top case fan or not, but if so even better. The idea is to have cool air coming in and hot air moving out, with the case door on.
If you CPU is reaching 100 degrees then to me that is an indication of a bad cooler, or improper use of thermal paste and or improper cpu cooler install. That should not be that hot.
Personally If I am having to leave the PC case open to prevent it from overheating then thats a problem to address right now. I would not add new hardware to a case that I could not close or keep cool. Spend 50 on a new case if needed, it may not have flashy lights and look like an alien but you can probably close it without your PC melting. I think there is another issue besides the case here tho.
Edit
Having said that this is all guess work tho. Just trying to give you some ideas of what it might be as 100 degrees would be concerning to me. Hopefully you can find and address the issue.
Well as I said the GPU was reaching 100 degrees not the other parts when I had the case closed, less fans and no cpu cooler.
That time I had a GTS 250 512 MB which had issues with heating and it was kinda big of a GPU (Fits exactly in this case). Then I added a big fan on the back and added a CPU cooler ontop of my CPU.
When I switched to the GTX 460 SE the temperature went down to around 60 degrees while gaming.
I did OC my current GPU and my older one but never tried the CPU.
I typically advise against overclocking video cards, especially if it's the top bin of a GPU chip. Processors are commonly downclocked a ways from the speeds at which they could run to save on power, but that's not nearly so often the case with desktop video cards as people who buy discrete video cards tend to be far more sensitive to performance than people who buy CPUs. Gamers care about both, of course, but businesses that buy CPUs and not discrete video cards tend to care more about reliability and less about getting a little more performance.
The Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2. should be ok - any heat sink that has a decent sized fan with heat pipes like that is going to outperform the stock heat sink by a good margin.
To answer your overclocking question on if you are overclocking the motherboard or components attached to it: Yes. All of the above. You can control them individually to some extent, but there are some things that are linked together and overclocking one setting can affect multiple components.
With regard to purchasing for overclocking: A lower end motherboard will probably over clock mildly just fine. I say mildly - like a 3.6->3.8 or maybe 4.0. You won't go from 3.6-> 4.5/5.0 on it though, they can't handle the power delivery (Quiz explained that very well).
The Freezer 7 will probably handle a mild over clock well. It's not the heaviest duty heat sink out there, but that's ok unless you are thinking of pushing things hard.
Decide if you are going to OC at all, ~maybe~ one day push it a little bit to play with it, or ~definitely~ decide to push it as far and as fast as you can push it. It makes a very large difference in how much you are going to spend and what motherboard/RAM/power supply/cooling you select. Don't go "No OC at all" on one component and "Heavy Fastest OC possible" on another - it doesn't make any sense.
Yeah and still after 7 pages I still can't decide on the damn motherboard lol.
I was saying finally people agreed on the Z87 now another person suggests the MSI Z97 G55 which somehow is cheaper than the Z87 of asus and a lot cheaper than the Z97 of asus of course.
Do the MSI boards really have bad quality or are people exaggerating?
Originally posted by Bloodaxes Yeah and still after 7 pages I still can't decide on the damn motherboard lol.I was saying finally people agreed on the Z87 now another person suggests the MSI Z97 G55 which somehow is cheaper than the Z87 of asus and a lot cheaper than the Z97 of asus of course.Do the MSI boards really have bad quality or are people exaggerating?
Your MOBO does not really matter. You are not a type of the user that could take a benefit from any extended features more expensive MOBO has to offer anyway.
As I told you earlier, your focus and your approach is wrong. You just try to buy what you "should" buy, instead of what you need and fits you the most.
I've not heard of any significant number of problems with MSI - so far as I can tell they are a fine brand, and up there with Asus and Gigabyte for the past few years.
There is no real reason that Z87 and Z97 should cost much different - apart from the fact that Z97 is the new kid on the block and Z87 has been around for a while, so you could see supply/demand take some effect.
Go with whichever you can get for cheaper, you won't see much, if any, performance difference between the two.
MSI boards are fine. I have one in my main gaming PC and it has done great, no problems for years. And that PC gets used heavily.
Not to say people have not had issues with them, but thats with every brand. The only mobo I personally have ever had problems with was an ASUS board. That does not mean ASUS boards all suck, just that the one I had years ago had a fault.
Gigabyte, MSI, Asus, AsRock, Biostar, ect. all have boards that fail, or are DOA, ect. It happens to all of them. You may get an Asus board that is DOA. It is the nature of the beast and shit happens. Find a board that is in your budget and pull the trigger. Nothing wrong with MSI.
Comments
That's a common myth by what I understand amongst people... I dislike MSI personally on aesthetics
). Look at professional reviews not word of mouth (otherwise you get: Radeon sucks ass because Nvidia is more expensive!).
Soooo
After much contemplation by amazon it's cheaper by quite a bit.
Still the price is kinda higher than expected (If we include the GPU)
The parts I am going to pick (Unless again someone thinks there is any better in the price range or a lil higher) are:
- Intel Core i5 4670k - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CO8TBOW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
(Which I might consider OC to 4 GHz in the future)
- Corsair Vengance 2x4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004QBUL1C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
(Thought on 12 GB or 16 GB but it seems overkill right?)
- Asus Z97 Maximus VII Hero - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00K8MUTMO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
(Might consider the Asus Z87 we'll see)
And of course the cursed GPU:
- GTX 660 - http://www.amazon.co.uk/GeForce-DirectCU-Graphics-DisplayPort-Surround/dp/B0098VKIRC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1401989141&sr=8-2&keywords=gtx+660
or
- GTX 760 - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nvidia-GeForce-DirectCU-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00DBPKEOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401989154&sr=8-1&keywords=gtx+760
(With the GTX 660 it's around 630 euro while with the GTX 760 it's around 685 euro)
So you spent money on i5 with £160 SLI mobo(lol) and then pair it with GTX660...
Also, GTX760 is overpriced.
My suggestions for what its worth.
CPU is fine. However you have no cpu cooler listed, Unless i missed where you had one in a previous post. If you dont have one spend the 30 bucks on a decent air cooler, no sense in getting a K series cpu and putting a stock cooler on it. Or for using a stock intel cooler anyways.
Ram- Go with 8gb for now, can always pop in another 8 later if you feel the need. Very easy to upgrade so no use in buying more than you will need when on a budget. Also you do not want to put 12gb in there. 4 / 8 / 16 will allow the dual channel to work properly.
Mobo- Do you plan on using Triple SLI / Xfire? or even SLI / xfire period? If not then I would buy a cheaper mobo with the features you need. You are paying extra for a top end motherboard & features you wont use or need. IMO that money could be better spent on a GPU upgrade to a 770
GPU- Personally I would just run the 460 until you had the extra cash for a 770. May take a month or 2 ( or 4 ) but it will be worth the wait. Over buying a 660 now.
Arma 3s problem with stuttering is probably not you, more the engine. And very well may still suffer the same issues with a new card.
All in all I would say buy 8gb RAM now, a CPU cooler, a cheaper mobo and use the 460 until you can get a 770.
My advice. Good luck with whatever you choose
Thanks for the reply.
Well for the CPU I have an additional fan over my current CPU and the side of the case is off. It produces that much heat on stock values? I don't think I'll be having heat problems until I try and OC and by then I can always pop a cooler.
I see no point in SLI, for me is just a waste of money for gaming. So yes, I won't be using 2 GPUs. By cheaper you mean a Z87? or even more cheap? I was looking at the Z97 since people say it produces less heat and supports some new features since it's one of the newest.
As for GPU as much as I'd like the 770 I'm not going to spend 300-400 (Not sure on the cost) on 1 part. The 760 costing almost half looks nicer in my eyes and pockets.
The 760 would still be very good for a while just not the best of the line.
Just like to say that while I'm listing the GPU nothing has been bought yet AND the GPU won't be bought with the other parts as I don't have sufficient funds for all the parts altogether.
Nvm, haven't noticed your budget is in EUR.
However, here is the CPU test when it comes to gaming:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/intel-haswell-refresh_4.html#sect0
i5 worthy..?
Intel will work fine at stock speeds with the stock cooler; everyone is just questioning if your willing to paying the extra money for the K-edition (which the only difference is the ability to overclock), but not willing to get a cooler to go with it to at least enable overclocking.
For most people, the intent of putting together a computer isn't for the ability of it to run only with extra fans pointed on it and the case cover removed. It's for it to work properly completely assembled. That may mean extra cooling fans installed in the case, or a bigger case, or something - but most people don't upgrade just to keep the same interim haphazard solutions they had been living with in the past.
Less expensive motherboard doesn't mean changing chipsets, just going with one with fewer features. The Maximus VI Hero, for instance, is made for semi-agressive overclocking and moderately high-end SLI/Crossfire. It's a Z87 board, which is fine, but you could go to something much less expensive (Asus Z87-A, for example) - which supports the same RAM, CPU, Graphics card, just lacks a lot of bells and whistles. If your not going to SLI/Overclock, or spend $35 on a better heatsink, and that's really what the extra your paying for in the Maximus is there for, then why not save $70 and go with the Z87-A instead, and maybe save another $25 and go to the i5 4570.
The savings on those two components alone, since you aren't considering overclocking anyway, is just about the same as the difference between a nVIdia 660 and 770 GPU, so you would get the same level of performance from the motherboard/CPU, be able to jump a generation and a tier on the graphics, and keep the same budget.
I'd opt in for a cooler even if you aren't going to OC right away. With an 212 Evo I"m not completely happy with my temps. They are alright. I guess that I just expected a little better out of the cooler under load.
Just my $0.02.
Thanks for the reply.
Well for the CPU part, the difference between the 4670 and 4670k price is a messly 4-6 dollars, hardly expensive.
I am not good on motherboards so I might sound dumb, but overclocking on the motherboard means overclocking the motherboard itself or to support overclocking on other parts attached to it?
As for cooler for the 4670k what would you guys suggest? If I am going to get a "cheaper" motherboard I can fit a cooler I think. Atm the cooler I have is the Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-64-pro.html
I might consider overclocking the CPU and if the Z87-A (For instance) is not suitable, I would like to know before buying it. Apart of the Z87 I keep on seeing the H87 listed which is ultimately the motherboard for non overclocking SLI board right?
I'm 99% sure that you can use the old CPU cooler. CBA to google more and be 100% sure.
Regarding MBO, don't go cheap. Cheap MBO means less OC potential, which wouldn't make sense if you buy OC CPU. You either buy overclocking parts or you don't. Don't go halfway.
A Core i5-4670K is rated at 84 W. Motherboards, power supplies, coolers, and so forth built to handle it can supply and/or dissipate 84 W just fine. But if you give it a hefty overclock, it might put out 150 W instead. Many motherboards aren't built to deliver 150 W while keeping the voltages steady, and many CPU coolers aren't built to dissipate 150 W. You'd also want a power supply that keeps voltages stable to make things easier on the motherboard and a case that can readily dissipate that much heat if you're looking for that sort of overclock.
Some motherboards are built to be able to deliver 100 W no problem, but seriously risk frying things if the CPU pulls 150 W from them--because it's cheaper to build that way than to be safe at 150 W, too. There's nothing "defective" about such a motherboard; it's just not meant for overclocking. The major motherboard vendors each have a bunch of models and the bottom end ones generally won't overclock much, but the top end ones may be able to deliver 300 W or more to a CPU--far more than you could ever get the CPU to pull by anything short of liquid nitrogen overclocking.
AsRock and MSI have lineups that most cleanly sort the motherboards in a lineup based on the numbers at the end. For AsRock, "Pro" means "don't overclock this", while "Extreme" can probably handle some overclocking, though I wouldn't trust AsRock's lower end "Extreme" motherboards for a big overclock. For Gigabyte, UD-anything (as opposed to just a D without a U, or DS-something) at the end of the model name should be able to handle a big overclock. Asus doesn't so clearly label their motherboards to make it clear that this one is higher end than that one.
You can tell quite a bit by looking at the motherboard. If oriented such that the CPU socket is toward the top left, the power circuitry will generally be above and to the left of the CPU, typically with cube-shaped things kind of near the CPU socket and other stuff often covered by heatsinks a little further back. Lower end motherboards often have less power circuitry and only put it to the left of the CPU, rather than also having some above it.
The cube things are power circuitry that operate in parallel to each other and connected to VRMs that are often covered up. A motherboard with more copies of one of them tends to be built to deliver more power to the CPU. But not all power phases are identical, and one of some particular model may be able to safely deliver twice as much power as one of some other model. AsRock in particular tends to go for more, weaker power phases. Still, within a given lineup (meaning, restricting to a certain brand and chipset), if power phases on different motherboards look identical, they probably are. If the bottom few motherboards in a lineup have five power phases, and the next one up has eight, there's a pretty good chance that the one with eight is built much more for overclocking than the ones below it. Again, this only applies within a particular lineup, and don't try to make this comparison between motherboards of different brands.
Another thing you can look at is heat sinks on the VRMs. VRMs convert voltages from the +12 V coming from the power supply to the 1.2 V or so that the CPU wants (it varies by CPU, and by clock speed even for a fixed CPU), and release some heat in the process. They get worse at this conversion as they get hotter, so while VRMs with no heatsink may be fine at stock speeds, it can often be a problem if you overclock. Motherboards built for overclocking typically cover the VRMs with heatsinks to allow them to dissipate more heat.
One final thing to look at is whether the motherboard has a 4-pin or 8-pin CPU power connector. There will be a plug with a grid of holes in either a 2x2 or 4x2 array near the CPU. If a motherboard has the former, it's not built to take that much power from the power supply and pass it along to the CPU. Again, that's fine at stock speeds, but a motherboard built for big overclocks will have an 8-pin CPU power connector. Don't get too caught up in this, though, as an 8-pin power connector doesn't add much to the cost as compared to 4-pin (unlike power phases, where more and higher quality does add substantial cost), and some motherboards not meant to overclock will still have an 8-pin CPU power connector.
Finally, no matter what motherboard you get, it will have a far easier time delivering the desired power to the CPU if the input power from the power supply is cleaner: low ripple, voltages that don't change much with load, and voltage near 12.0 V on the +12 V rail. If you're looking to overclock, don't rely on one good component to make up for another bad component. You want high quality stuff all the way through.
The Z87-A has 8 pins and is kinda 50 sterlin cheaper than the Z97 Hero I put a link off.
There's so many variants of the Z87 tough lol guess back to searching on google!
If you want a Z97 mobo go with something like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130780
That will do everything you need to do and more. You are not a power user and unless you just want to spend the money on a mobo with features you may not even understand how to use then save the money.
From reading your posts you may not even have a basic understanding on overclocking. If you want to spend the money on a K version cpu then all good, its not that much more and will allow you to OC at some point if you want. You can do basic small overclocking on a mid priced mobo like the one listed if you so desire. Spending 200 on an awesome mobo that will never be fully used is a waste of your funds.
You do want to get a good cpu cooler. Pointing another fan at the CPU with the case door off for cooling is half assed at best, and may screw your system up at worst. Try to move away fro such measures. Dont upgrade to these parts and skimp $30 on a cpu cooler only to have to leave the case open with a box fan pointed into it for cooling. Get the system closed up and sealed is the goal lol.
Its your money to spend how you like. I would recommend going with a lower cost motherboard like I listed, or something in that price range, a cpu cooler to start with ( putting one on later is a pain and not worth skimping on to save a small amount). Get a 770 with the cost saving and a few extra dollars, you will be glad you did as that will last.
Either way I hope it works out for you=)
Edit;
I am not sure what OCing you can do on the G43 I listed above, here is a link to a G55 which is $20 more but has a few more features and is a better board overall.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130776
I did OC my current GPU and my older one but never tried the CPU.
I could go with a Z87 too as I said it's around 50 sterlin cheaper than the Z97. At first I was looking at that MSI board but keep on reading the quality of the parts is not that great compared to asus.
So in other words my current CPU cooler is not good? The Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2.
My case (Raidmax Ninja) sadly doesn't have much area of ventilation if I keep the case side closed. My older GPU (GTS 250 512 MB) in summer while playing it would reach on 100 degrees and made the room so hot I was worried. Removing the side and new GPU the temperature reduced by around 30%.
Now I even got that CPU cooler which should have lowered it even more.
I googled Raidmax Ninja and that case should be ok for ventilation for standard use. Just check you fan placement and direction so air is moving in and out.
The cooler you listed should be fine. If you are still getting temps 100 or above then that would be strange. With the front case fan blowing in, the rear blowing out and the small fan on the side blowing in you should have air flow sufficient to cool the PC. Not sure if that case has a top case fan or not, but if so even better. The idea is to have cool air coming in and hot air moving out, with the case door on.
If you CPU is reaching 100 degrees then to me that is an indication of a bad cooler, or improper use of thermal paste and or improper cpu cooler install. That should not be that hot.
Personally If I am having to leave the PC case open to prevent it from overheating then thats a problem to address right now. I would not add new hardware to a case that I could not close or keep cool. Spend 50 on a new case if needed, it may not have flashy lights and look like an alien but you can probably close it without your PC melting. I think there is another issue besides the case here tho.
Edit
Having said that this is all guess work tho. Just trying to give you some ideas of what it might be as 100 degrees would be concerning to me. Hopefully you can find and address the issue.
Well as I said the GPU was reaching 100 degrees not the other parts when I had the case closed, less fans and no cpu cooler.
That time I had a GTS 250 512 MB which had issues with heating and it was kinda big of a GPU (Fits exactly in this case). Then I added a big fan on the back and added a CPU cooler ontop of my CPU.
When I switched to the GTX 460 SE the temperature went down to around 60 degrees while gaming.
I typically advise against overclocking video cards, especially if it's the top bin of a GPU chip. Processors are commonly downclocked a ways from the speeds at which they could run to save on power, but that's not nearly so often the case with desktop video cards as people who buy discrete video cards tend to be far more sensitive to performance than people who buy CPUs. Gamers care about both, of course, but businesses that buy CPUs and not discrete video cards tend to care more about reliability and less about getting a little more performance.
The Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2. should be ok - any heat sink that has a decent sized fan with heat pipes like that is going to outperform the stock heat sink by a good margin.
To answer your overclocking question on if you are overclocking the motherboard or components attached to it: Yes. All of the above. You can control them individually to some extent, but there are some things that are linked together and overclocking one setting can affect multiple components.
With regard to purchasing for overclocking:
A lower end motherboard will probably over clock mildly just fine. I say mildly - like a 3.6->3.8 or maybe 4.0. You won't go from 3.6-> 4.5/5.0 on it though, they can't handle the power delivery (Quiz explained that very well).
The Freezer 7 will probably handle a mild over clock well. It's not the heaviest duty heat sink out there, but that's ok unless you are thinking of pushing things hard.
Decide if you are going to OC at all, ~maybe~ one day push it a little bit to play with it, or ~definitely~ decide to push it as far and as fast as you can push it. It makes a very large difference in how much you are going to spend and what motherboard/RAM/power supply/cooling you select. Don't go "No OC at all" on one component and "Heavy Fastest OC possible" on another - it doesn't make any sense.
Yeah and still after 7 pages I still can't decide on the damn motherboard lol.
I was saying finally people agreed on the Z87 now another person suggests the MSI Z97 G55 which somehow is cheaper than the Z87 of asus and a lot cheaper than the Z97 of asus of course.
Do the MSI boards really have bad quality or are people exaggerating?
Your MOBO does not really matter. You are not a type of the user that could take a benefit from any extended features more expensive MOBO has to offer anyway.
As I told you earlier, your focus and your approach is wrong. You just try to buy what you "should" buy, instead of what you need and fits you the most.
I've not heard of any significant number of problems with MSI - so far as I can tell they are a fine brand, and up there with Asus and Gigabyte for the past few years.
There is no real reason that Z87 and Z97 should cost much different - apart from the fact that Z97 is the new kid on the block and Z87 has been around for a while, so you could see supply/demand take some effect.
Go with whichever you can get for cheaper, you won't see much, if any, performance difference between the two.
MSI boards are fine. I have one in my main gaming PC and it has done great, no problems for years. And that PC gets used heavily.
Not to say people have not had issues with them, but thats with every brand. The only mobo I personally have ever had problems with was an ASUS board. That does not mean ASUS boards all suck, just that the one I had years ago had a fault.
Gigabyte, MSI, Asus, AsRock, Biostar, ect. all have boards that fail, or are DOA, ect. It happens to all of them. You may get an Asus board that is DOA. It is the nature of the beast and shit happens. Find a board that is in your budget and pull the trigger. Nothing wrong with MSI.
Thing is the MSI Z97 G55 Board is cheaper than the Asus Z87-A.
I am trying my best to search on which is the best but there's slim to none reviews on that msi board which makes me a little worried.