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Need help! Corsair H60 or H100?!

Br3akingDawnBr3akingDawn a City, CAPosts: 1,366Member Uncommon
So I cannot decide which one should I be getting. atm newegg has the H60 for 50$ after rebate! and the H100 for merely 95$ after rebate! I heard both are pretty good.



  • CleffyCleffy San Diego, CAPosts: 4,638Member Uncommon

    I would really question what is a water cooling setup?

    You have a heatsink that has water inside it.  The water heats up and leave the heatsink.  It moves to a radiator where it cools down to ambient or near ambient temperature.  It then replaces the water currently in the heatsink and the cycle continues.  This means the goal is to make sure the water going into the heatsink is at ambient temperature, the flow of water is fast enough so its not heating up too much inside the heatsink, and the heatsink itself is made of a material that transmits heat well.  Personally I don't find either to be a good solution, here is why.

    A> Closed System: You will never need to refill.  Problem, you cannot expand.  This will be more beneficial in some cases.  You don't have to upkeep it as much.  You cannot put in bad liquid that may hold an electric current or corode the heatsink. It cannot be upgraded to cool the other GPU components. 

    B> H100 has a fan speed controllers on the heatsink/pump.  How do you get to it when its in your case?  What happens if it becomes faulty?  Anything more complex adds more things to go wrong.  Considering its in your case, its probably not useful but can cause future issues.

    C> H100, what is that gray thing on the heatsink?  If its a heating pad, ick.  If its a different alloy other then copper, then ouch.  Does not seem worth it to also have to remove heating pad compound.

    D> Liquid cooling systems have 2 things that can go wrong, Air cooled systems have 1 thing.  Is it worth the risk.  You need to make sure the fan on the radiator works, like you need to make sure the fan on an air cooled system works.  If it doesn't work you notice because you don't hear it anymore.  In a liquid cooled system, the pump also needs to work.  If the pump in this fails, your whole heatsink is done since the pump is attached to it.  If the pump goes then there is nothing to move the liquid from the heatsink aside from thermal power.  Also its difficult to see if the pump fails.

    Personally, if you are near ambient temps with a air cooled, I would stick with it.  If you want more cooling, then I would go the whole 9 yards with a seperate radiator, pump, GPU and CPU heatsinks.  The main advantage of this heatsink is simplicity for a liquid cooled system.  I think I elaborated on the disadvantages.  Finally there are the benchmarks

    From the benchmarks you can see all the reviewers recommended it.  Also from the benchmarks you can see it only obtained a few degrees celsius difference then air-cooled after market coolers.  It was noticably quieter though.

  • PalaziousPalazious Lewiston, IDPosts: 162Member
    Originally posted by Epic1oots
    So I cannot decide which one should I be getting. atm newegg has the H60 for 50$ after rebate! and the H100 for merely 95$ after rebate! I heard both are pretty good.

    I've used both and both are good closed systems.  Esentially, if you want to push things a bit more the H100 has twice the radiator.  The fan control is kinda 'meh'.  I guess if you have noisy fans and want to turn them down.  I have quiet fans and just left it up... couldn't really tell too much difference in cooling or noise with the quiet fans.

    I think its place is if you want performance as good as/maybe a bit better then a nice Noctua air cooler but don't want the noise then its a pretty good system.

    If your planning on really OC the machine then go custom with cpu & gpu waterblocks.

    My system now uses a koolance 370 cpu block (I7-980x) and can safely hit 5Ghz.  For everyday purposes  I run it at 4.4Ghz @ 70c running Prime95.  2 GTX680s (SLI) are stable at 1259Mhz (koolance blocks) in the same loop.  This is noticebly better then what I got with the H100 and much better then the H60.

    After all 3 I think that each of them are decent products.  I'm not sure If you'll like the H100 2x as good as the H60 but it is a better system.  If you have the money and the room for the 2x120mm radiator then go for the H100.

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  • MindTriggerMindTrigger La Quinta, CAPosts: 2,596Member

    I put the h100 on my latest ivy bridge build and I dig it.   Nice and cool, clean install if you have the right case, and adjustable.  The h80 might be a good choice too, but I would rather some overkill myself.

    I agree with going modular if you are doing serious oc work.  I'm wary of oc setups these days.  You rarely get bottlenecked there in games.

    A sure sign that you are in an old, dying paradigm/mindset, is when you are scared of new ideas and new technology. Don't feel bad. The world is moving on without you, and you are welcome to yell "Get Off My Lawn!" all you want while it happens. You cannot, however, stop an idea whose time has come.

  • KhayotixKhayotix Somewhere, FLPosts: 220Member Uncommon
    I own the H100 myself. It is a hefty closed system. Only a few Full Tower Cases can even hold it without modding. I personally have the Corsair 800D Case. I would Reccomend the H60 or H80 since they fit in a single 120mm fan slot with a push pull config. I have the H100 in push pull but it is a freaking monster(size wise).

  • RidelynnRidelynn Fresno, CAPosts: 4,241Member Uncommon

    The only real difference is the size of the radiator.

    If you have enough space in your case to house the H100 radiator, then go for it. A bigger radiator gives you more control over the system (you can either run more, faster fans for better cooling, or quieter/slower fans for equivalent cooling at lower noise).

    As far as the "why watercooling" that Cleffy brings up:

    Watercooling, even closed systems, have one big advantage over traditional air cooling: You can control where the heat gets dumped. With a traditional air cooler, the heat is all dumped inside the case, and you have to use case fans to get the heat outside of the case. Not a huge deal with most cases, as they are big enough, but still, you don't have any other option. With a water setup, you can control where the radiator goes, so you can direct exactly where the heat is dumped - even removed entirely from the case if you wanted to. It can make a very large difference in temperatures on other components, especially motherboard and power supplies that traditionally have to fight against the heat dumped by traditional CPU air coolers.

    I haven't found watercooling to be any less reliable than air cooling - all mechanical systems are prone to breaking. The pumps in watercoolers that I have used have been as reliable as fans, and waterblocks are not susceptible to dust/hair/dirt blockage degrading their performance, so all in all with regard to reliability it's about a draw, with maybe an edge on watercooling because you don't have to clean them periodically to maintain their performance, and radiators typically have more than one fan - they will work fine as long as there is air moving, just at reduced capacity.

  • syntax42syntax42 Columbus, OHPosts: 1,315Member Uncommon
    Originally posted by Ridelynn

    I haven't found watercooling to be any less reliable than air cooling - all mechanical systems are prone to breaking. 


    Passive air coolers are large, but have practically zero chance of failing.  Aftermarket heatsinks can provide some cooling if the fan fails, which I would guess would be enough to give you time to shut down your system as long as you still have air flow through the case.  If a water pump fails, you don't get any heat removal, unless they make some sort of dual pump system for redundancy.


    I think water cooling is a thing of the past, anyways.  It looks neat, but it doesn't really have a practical purpose any more.  Back in the day, processors were inefficient and generated tons of heat.  Now, with processor design scaling down below 32 nm, heat generation is becoming less of an issue.  You used to need to dissipate 250 watts of heat, but now 100 watts is fairly common for desktops.  


    On my desktop, I have the CPU overclocked close to the limit of stability on a stock heatsink and fan.  All aftermarket cooling is becoming obsolete, in my opinion.

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