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107 hours in at the moment and on my second character. Can't say I saw much of the main story (I always avoid that because I don't like being the "chosen one" / "hero of the friggin' universe") but I did the Thieves and DB lines and started on the Stormcloak one.
Yet it strikes me as odd that all the side quests are the most surprising, inspired and entertaining ones in my opinion: there seem to be much more of those and they are more fleshed out compared to Oblivion. Though the Dark Brotherhood one was also very entertaining towards the end.
So what bit of "pre-made" content did you like best so far?